The Best Packrafting Paddles

Your Paddle is Your Engine (and Your Way Home)

When you’re packrafting, your paddle is more than just a tool – it’s your engine, your steering wheel, and sometimes your ticket home. Choosing the best packraft paddle isn’t just about comfort; it’s about safety, efficiency, and making sure you can trust it in the middle of nowhere.

Why Paddle Length Matters

One of the biggest mistakes we see new packrafters make is buying a paddle that’s far too long. Plenty of online advice (especially from retailers who don’t paddle) suggests lengths of 210–230 cm. That’s kayak territory – and in a packraft, it’s downright inefficient.

With a long paddle you end up paddling like you’re sitting in a bathtub: poor posture, less power, and strokes that pull you off balance. Less power means you’re more likely to get bullied by the river and swim. In whitewater or even swift-moving rivers, that’s a safety issue, not just a comfort one.

A few centimetres longer than ideal is fine, but going 10–30 cm too long will hurt you in the long run. For reference:

• At 5’10” (178 cm), I paddle a 197 cm paddle.
• Shorter guides (around 5’6”) use 194 cm paddles.
• Taller folks stretch to 200 cm at most.

This is consistent with whitewater kayaking, where paddle length is matched closely to paddler height and boat type. In short: shorter is stronger.

Durability – Because Snapping a Paddle is No Joke

Kayakers don’t want a snapped paddle, and neither do packrafters. Mid-rapid, it could leave you well and truly stranded.

We’ve seen it happen. On the Waiatoto Expedition (later made into a film that won at the NZ Mountain Film Festival), Jasper Gibson – who we sponsored with gear – brought along a lightweight paddle against our recommendation. It snapped on his very first ferry glide in one of the most remote valleys in New Zealand. Hiking out of the Waiatoto (or worse, the Landsborough) with a broken paddle is not the adventure you dream of.

That’s why durability is non-negotiable when choosing the best paddle for packrafting.

For us, experience has been a tough teacher. We used to stock Aqua Bound paddles, until we had so many warranty issues that we stopped. There’s a reason people jokingly call them “Aqua Bound-to-Break.” Lesson learned – and now we only back paddles we’d trust on our own expeditions.

1-Piece, 2-Piece, 4-Piece – Which is Right for You?

If you’re roadside or mostly kayaking, a solid 1-piece is king: no joins, no weaknesses. But for packrafters, a breakdown paddle is often the only realistic choice.

• 2-piece paddles are fine for paddling straight from the car, but as soon as you start bush-bashing or flying with your gear, they’re a headache.
• 4-piece paddles are the sweet spot for adventure. They disappear into your pack, travel well, and still perform reliably if you buy a quality one.

That’s why most packrafters eventually invest in a strong 4-piece packraft paddle – it’s the balance of portability and durability.

Crank vs Straight Shafts

A crank shaft puts your wrists in a more natural position, reducing strain. If you’re paddling heaps – like guides or expedition paddlers – it can save you from tendonitis or RSI. They’re expensive, though, which is why most beginners start with a straight shaft.

Right now, I paddle a Lettmann 2-piece crank. It’s bombproof, with a ferrule that allows full offset control, but it’s pricey. So pricey, in fact, that I may or may not have told my partner I won it in a raffle (shhh).

The exciting bit? We’re currently developing a 4-piece crank paddle with the same ferrule-style system as the Lettmann – a feature we think is the gold standard. We’ll keep abusing it for a season to find its limits before release, but keep an eye out: it’s going to be a high-value alternative to the market leader.

What We Paddle Ourselves

On day trips around Queenstown, only one of our guides uses the Traverse, I stick to my Lettmann, and others frankly grab whatever’s lying around – sometimes even our bombproof aluminium-and-plastic customer paddles that would survive a nuclear blast.

But the big takeaway is this:

• The Palm Maverick G1 4-piece is an outstanding entry-level packraft paddle. Light on the wallet, tough as nails, and a brilliant way to get started. Maybe not your forever paddle, but a bomber companion for the first chapters of your paddling life.
• The Alpacka Carbon and Fiberglass Traverse paddles? That’s more likely to be your forever paddle. A high-performance workhorse you’ll grow into and keep for years.

Wrapping It Up

Choosing the best packraft paddle isn’t about gimmicks. It’s about getting the right length for your height, trusting your gear not to fail mid-river, and deciding whether you’re investing in a starter paddle or your forever paddle.

Whether it’s a Palm Maverick G1 4-piece to get you going, a Traverse paddle to carry you across years of trips, or waiting for our crank-shaft innovation, the message is simple: your paddle is your engine, your steering wheel, and your way home. Choose wisely.

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Packrafting Paddle FAQ

What length paddle is best for packrafting?
Most packrafters are best off with a paddle in the 194–200 cm range, depending on height. At 5’10” (178 cm) a 197 cm paddle is ideal. Avoid the overly long 210–230 cm paddles often recommended by retailers – they encourage poor technique and less power.

Is a 4-piece paddle better for packrafting?
Yes. A 4-piece packraft paddle is easier to travel with, pack, and carry through the bush. It’s the most practical option for adventure paddlers.

What’s the best beginner paddle for packrafting?
The Palm Maverick G1 4-piece is one of the best entry-level paddles: affordable, durable, and proven on New Zealand rivers.

What’s the best forever paddle for packrafting?
The Traverse paddle (carbon or fiberglass) is a long-term investment. Light, strong, and versatile, it’s the paddle you’ll keep for years.